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Friday, July 24, 2009

Amazing suspension system !!!! ( Bose Active Suspension)

Bose Suspension









The challenge




Every automotive suspension has two goals: passenger comfort and vehicle control. Comfort is provided by isolating the vehicle's passengers from road disturbances like bumps or potholes.




Control is achieved by keeping the car body from rolling and pitching excessively, and maintaining good contact between the tire and the road.
Unfortunately, these goals are in conflict. In a luxury sedan the suspension is usually designed with an emphasis on comfort, but the result is a vehicle that rolls and pitches while driving and during turning and braking.





In sports cars, where the emphasis is on control, the suspension is designed to reduce roll and pitch, but comfort is sacrificed.
Bose engineers took a unique approach to solving this problem, and the result is an entirely new approach to suspension design





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Amazing system


In 1980, Bose founder and CEO Dr. Amar Bose conducted a mathematical study to determine the optimum possible performance of an automotive suspension, ignoring the limitations of any existing suspension hardware.


The result of this 5-year study indicated that it was possible to achieve performance that was a large step above anything available.


After evaluating conventional and variable spring/damper systems as well as hydraulic approaches, it was determined that none had the combination of speed, strength, and efficiency that is necessary to provide the desired results.


The study led to electromagnetics as the one approach that could realize the desired suspension characteristics.
The Bose suspension required significant advancements in four key disciplines: linear electromagnetic motors, power amplifiers, control algorithms, and computation speed. Bose took on the challenge of the first three disciplines and bet on developments that industry would make on the fourth item.
Prototypes of the Bose suspension have been installed in standard production vehicles. These research vehicles have been tested on a wide variety of roads, on tracks, and on durability courses.

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Compnents


The Bose® suspension system includes a linear electromagnetic motor and power amplifier at each wheel, and a set of control algorithms. This proprietary combination of suspension hardware and control software makes it possible, for the first time, to combine superior comfort and superior control in the same vehicle.


Linear electromagnetic motor


A linear electromagnetic motor is installed at each wheel of a Bose equipped vehicle. Inside the linear electromagnetic motor are magnets and coils of wire. When electrical power is applied to the coils, the motor retracts and extends, creating motion between the wheel and car body.
One of the key advantages of an electromagnetic approach is speed. The linear electromagnetic motor responds quickly enough to counter the effects of bumps and potholes, maintaining a comfortable ride. Additionally, the motor has been designed for maximum strength in a small package, allowing it to put out enough force to prevent the car from rolling and pitching during aggressive driving maneuvers


Power amplifier

The power amplifier delivers electrical power to the motor in response to signals from the control algorithms. The amplifiers are based on switching amplification technologies pioneered by Dr. Bose at MIT in the early 1960s — technologies that led to the founding of Bose Corporation in 1964.
The regenerative power amplifiers allow power to flow into the linear electromagnetic motor and also allow power to be returned from the motor. For example, when the Bose suspension encounters a pothole, power is used to extend the motor and isolate the vehicle's occupants from the disturbance. On the far side of the pothole, the motor operates as a generator and returns power back through the amplifier. In so doing, the Bose suspension requires less than a third of the power of a typical vehicle's air conditioner system.




Control algorithms

The Bose suspension system is controlled by a set of mathematical algorithms developed over the 24 years of research. These control algorithms operate by observing sensor measurements taken from around the car and sending commands to the power amplifiers installed in each corner of the vehicle. The goal of the control algorithms is to allow the car to glide smoothly over roads and to eliminate roll and pitch during driving



watch this video it's for real

Saturday, June 20, 2009

Clutches

Clutches














If you drive a manual transmission car, you may be surprised to find out that it has more than one clutch. And it turns out that folks with automatic transmission cars have clutches, too. In fact, there are clutches in many things you probably see or use every day: Many cordless drills have a clutch, chain saws have a centrifugal clutch and even some yo-yos have a clutch.





Clutches are useful in devices that have two rotating shafts. In these devices, one of the shafts is typically driven by a motor or pulley, and the other shaft drives another device. In a drill, for instance, one shaft is driven by a motor and the other drives a drill chuck. The clutch connects the two shafts so that they can either be locked together and spin at the same speed, or be decoupled and spin at different speeds.








In a car, you need a clutch because the engine spins all the time, but the car's wheels do not. In order for­ a car to stop without killing the engine, the wheels need to be disconnected from the engine somehow. The clutch allows us to smoothly engage a spinning engine to a non-spinning transmission by controlling the slippage between them.
To understand how a clutch works, it helps to know a little bit about friction, which is a measure of how hard it is to slide one object over another.




Friction is caused by the peaks and valleys that are part of every surface -- even very smooth surfaces still have microscopic peaks and valleys. The larger these peaks and valleys are, the harder it is to slide the object.




A clutch works because of friction between a clutch plate and a flywheel.


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Fly Wheels, Clutch Plates and Friction
In a car's clutch, a flywheel connects to the engine, and a clutch plate connects to the transmission. You can see what this looks like in the figure below.




When your foot is off the pedal, the springs push the pressure plate against the clutch disc, which in turn presses against the flywheel. This locks the engine to the transmission input shaft, causing them to spin at the same speed.




The amount of force the clutch can hold depends on the friction between the clutch plate and the flywheel, and how much force the spring puts on the pressure plate.






When the clutch pedal is pressed, a cable or hydraulic piston pushes on the release fork, which presses the throw-out bearing against the middle of the diaphragm spring. As the middle of the diaphragm spring is pushed in, a series of pins near the outside of the spring causes the spring to pull the pressure plate away from the clutch disc .


This releases the clutch from the spinning engine.


Note the springs in the clutch plate. These springs help to isolate the transmission from the shock of the clutch engaging.




This design usually works pretty well, but it does have a few drawbacks.
Common Problems
From the 1950s to the 1970s, you could count on getting between 50,000 and 70,000 miles from your car's clutch. Clutches can now last for more than 80,000 miles if you use them gently and maintain them well. If not cared for, clutches can start to break down at 35,000 miles. Trucks that are consistently overloaded or that frequently tow heavy loads can also have problems with relatively new clutches.
The most common problem with clutches is that the friction material on the disc wears out. The friction material on a clutch disc is very similar to the friction material on the pads of a disc brake or the shoes of a drum brake -- after a while, it wears away. When most or all of the friction material is gone, the clutch will start to slip, and eventually it won't transmit any power from the engine to the wheels.

The clutch only wears while the clutch disc and the flywheel are spinning at different speeds. When they are locked together, the friction material is held tightly against the flywheel, and they spin in sync. It's only when the clutch disc is slipping against the flywheel that wearing occurs. So, if you are the type of driver who slips the clutch a lot, you'll wear out your clutch a lot faster.
Sometimes the problem is not with slipping, but with sticking. If your clutch won't release properly, it will continue to turn the input shaft. This can cause grinding, or completely prevent your car from going into gear. Some common reasons a clutch may stick are:
-Broken or stretched clutch cable - The cable needs the right amount of tension to push and pull effectively.

-Leaky or defective slave and/or master clutch cylinders - Leaks keep the cylinders from building the necessary amount of pressure.

-Air in the hydraulic line - Air affects the hydraulics by taking up space the fluid needs to build pressure.

-Misadjusted linkage - When your foot hits the pedal, the linkage transmits the wrong amount of force.

-Mismatched clutch components - Not all aftermarket parts work with your clutch.
A "hard" clutch is also a common problem. All clutches require some amount of force to depress fully. If you have to press hard on the pedal, there may be something wrong. Sticking or binding in the pedal linkage, cable, cross shaft, or pivot ball are common causes. Sometimes a blockage or worn seals in the hydraulic system can also cause a hard clutch.
Another problem associated with clutches is a worn throw-out
bearing, sometimes called a clutch release bearing. This bearing applies force to the fingers of the spinning pressure plate to release the clutch. If you hear a rumbling sound when the clutch engages, you might have a problem with the throw-out.


Clutch Diagnostic Test
If you find that your clutch has failed, here is an at-home diagnostic test that anyone can perform:


1-Start your car, set the parking break, and put the car in neutral.


2-With your car idling, listen for a growling noise without pushing the clutch in. If you hear something, it's most likely a problem with the transmission. If you don't hear a noise, proceed to step three.


3-With the car still in neutral, begin to push the clutch and listen for noise. If you hear a chirping noise as you press, it's most likely the clutch release, or throw-out bearing. If you don't hear a noise, proceed to step four.


4-Push the clutch all the way to the floor. If you hear a squealing noise, it's probably the pilot bearing or bushing.

If you don't hear any noise during these four steps, then your problem is probably not the clutch. If you hear the noise at idle and it goes away when the clutch is pressed, it may be an issue in the contact point between the fork and pivot ball.

Friday, June 12, 2009

Amazing video (inside the engine)

See how the engine is built with it's different parts